Help / feedback

Does anyone have general starting tips for new to medium level players?

One sorry about the long worded post, I was hoping that this will be searchable by other players in the future.

Second if there is a thread on this let me know I could not find anything on this subject.

Anyways I am at a point in the game where I can not take a single match in an event and when playing casually with my friends they generally can not win.

I am not really sure of when it is good to attack or discard cards or hold cards etc.

I am wondering if anyone has some general tips on playing the game and what to look out for in general not every fringe case of course.

Also I assume some of the starter decks are better then others is there a deck that should always win vs the other player? A deck that I could train my friends with and I pick an objectively worse deck and at some point they should be able to win consistently.

Or perhaps there is a handicap mechanic like chains in keyforge, I considered applying chains to a deck in the same manner but drawing does not seem super important in this game.


Comments

  • Also I assume some of the starter decks are better then others is there a deck that should always win vs the other player?

    Saria vs. Jessa is pretty bad for Jessa because all her cards are expansive but saria can deactivate a lot of her fun stuff.
    Fear is not even really helpful. You don't want to give your opponent an exhausted Rose Fire Dancer back into the hand and it does not affect the ravens.
    In Short Jessa has to do pretty much everything right and get a little lucky on top to have a good chance against the 'correct startinghand', which is
    Summon Seaside Raven , Rose Fire Dancer, Summon Three Eyed Owl and some fourth and fifth card i cant remember, probably Hidden Power,Abudance.
    As for Handicaps : place woundtokens on the phoenixborn. 3 Woundtoken usually equal about 1 relevant blocking option per game (on an 18 Life Phoenixborn).
    So an easy Handicap would be up to 3 wound tokens, middle could be 3 to 6 and hard would be 7 to 9.

    I am not really sure of when it is good to attack or discard cards or hold cards etc.

    Depends on how strongly your opponents optimize their decks.
    People often use a rather subjective percent scale for this.
    If premade decks are at 50% and 70% is about the average of decks on this site you will have to figure out those rules for yourself if your opponents are up in the 90+%, meaning they really want to win in a tournament and prepare weeks on end.
    Lets assume you are somewhere between 75% and 80%, meaning we can talk in more broad terms and not about card specific decisions :
    Attacking or discarding can be good or bad depending on your wincondition or the opponents.
    In Ashes most win conditions boil down to either discard, dice advantage, early aggression, unblockable attacks or what people call big swings.
    The most general way to look at these is how fast they typically win, for example a discard deck is likely to win about round 5 or 6 and not round 2.
    If you know your own wincondition and the wincondition of the opponent one of you is going to be faster at winning - that player is usually playing aggressive while the other player tries to make the game last longer so they can get to the favorable position for their deck.
    Sometimes as more relevant actions happen these roles are switched but usually they are not too dynamic and they can in large part be recognized from the dicepool and some key cards that get played as early as possible.
    Lots of [[Ceremonial]] with Chant of Revenge is probably the aggressive type.

    If you are the defending player you usually can't afford to play resource efficient, because that is always the slower option.
    So you want to discard cards at the end of the round in hopes of drawing effect full new cards, should you have them in your deck. You also need to use all your dice if possible.
    Sometimes however the games is slower and whoever moves first loses.
    For example too astrea players having an elephant rider in play will both go back and forth competing for control over the Unit with Mark of the Goddess, dispel and what have you.
    If you somehow go into the next round with a useful card in your hand you should probably keep it. That will not happen a lot though. There are probably better examples.

    As for Attacking : That is more complex. At the casual level you will find that most players do not think about what happens on the rebound - the turn after the attack.
    If you attack with all your units you will not have any defenders left.
    If you attack with enough units, such that your opponent has more unexhausted units than you do, at least one of them is gonna get through to you on an attack.
    If your opponent plays a combat focused deck you will have to do this kind of math in your head and always think about the next few turns.
    Your attacks should, at least at the start of the game, either pressure the opponents life points drastically, severely reduce their options or frustrate their resources.
    First thing of that list can be done with hammer knight, second thing with Imperial Ninja and the last thing is more indirectly done by fighting with dice efficient Units like Shadow Spirit or even FrostBack Bear, such that they lose units and you do not.

    If your attack does non of those things there is a good chance it is a bad attack.
    The fallacy here is that not all phoenixborn damage is actually important.
    Every phoenixborn has X+1 Life. X for blocking and 1 for staying in the game.
    Spending the first X is fine if you can't take that last important one from them.
    So if you deal phoenixborn damage that will only get relevant once they can't draw anymore and take damage instead that is often not a good attack unless it is obviously at no cost.
    You will however need a lot of play experience to judge if damage is relevant for the outcome of the game or not.
    But a simple one would be if you have 2 1-attack Units on the field, 1 3-attack unit and the opponent is at 3 life.
    If there is no other source of damage on your side than those units the attacks with smaller units will not matter this round. Attacking might actually cost you a lot while not increasing your chance of winning.
    If you would gain an advantage by the round ending, e.g. card draw, you should actually aggressively pass.

  • Sweet thanks for all the recommendations I think I have a grasp on sort of a starting point. Also the handicaps mentioned above will be great, no one wants to play a super one sided game while learning.

  • another 'bad' match upĀ is coal roarkwin vs saria guideman, in coals favour. abundance just feeds slash and none of her units have much health